Tea is nice. It can be flavourful, aromatic and calming. The Chinese, in particular, do a wonderful job of making tea a variety of tastes and experiences. But for the coffee-drinker, China, with its teas and instant coffees, is a caffeine wasteland.
I am a coffee drinker and China was a trial.
Crossing the border from Hekou to the Vietnamese town of Lao Cai meant not only an end to a long, horrible day of travel, but also better prospects for satisfying my caffeine addiction.
After changing Chinese yuan to Vietnamese dong, I bought a ticket for the night train to Hanoi and went in search of food. I ended up at a restaurant in the square just across from the station and ordered pho, a soft drink - and a coffee.
I had encountered Vietnamese coffee before: a place in Victoria, Le Petite Saigon, does a very nice cup. A single shot of espresso sweetened with condensed milk, this one was glorious. I let the bitter-sweet roll through me. The thick and rich and slow liquid eased my wait for the train. The trip to Hekou didn't matter anymore.
But the experience wasn't just the flavour; it was the process of making the coffee, too. Though some places will pre-mix the drink, this tiny spot in Lao Cai did not. They did it right.
Out came a clear glass cup with a layer of condensed milk at the bottom. A metal filter rested on top of the cup and passed boiling hot water through a portion of tightly-packed grounds. I watched the water become a shot of espresso before my eyes. Drip, drip, drip. When it finished, I removed the filter, stirred and drank. Bliss!
Coffee-drinkers: welcome to Vietnam!
I am a coffee drinker and China was a trial.
Crossing the border from Hekou to the Vietnamese town of Lao Cai meant not only an end to a long, horrible day of travel, but also better prospects for satisfying my caffeine addiction.
After changing Chinese yuan to Vietnamese dong, I bought a ticket for the night train to Hanoi and went in search of food. I ended up at a restaurant in the square just across from the station and ordered pho, a soft drink - and a coffee.
I had encountered Vietnamese coffee before: a place in Victoria, Le Petite Saigon, does a very nice cup. A single shot of espresso sweetened with condensed milk, this one was glorious. I let the bitter-sweet roll through me. The thick and rich and slow liquid eased my wait for the train. The trip to Hekou didn't matter anymore.
But the experience wasn't just the flavour; it was the process of making the coffee, too. Though some places will pre-mix the drink, this tiny spot in Lao Cai did not. They did it right.
Out came a clear glass cup with a layer of condensed milk at the bottom. A metal filter rested on top of the cup and passed boiling hot water through a portion of tightly-packed grounds. I watched the water become a shot of espresso before my eyes. Drip, drip, drip. When it finished, I removed the filter, stirred and drank. Bliss!
Coffee-drinkers: welcome to Vietnam!
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1 comment:
Hi Mike - I'm very much enjoying being on your travels.... I can picture very clearly what you describe, and it sounds great (and tasty. Glad everything is going well, and glad you found some good coffee, Cheers C.
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